This time around, I started with gradient dyed roving (silk/merino blend) and split it vertically. Then I spun each half into a 40 wpi single before plying. Currently it’s about an eighth of a geschenk, which is perfect for a shawl for this old lady:
I love giving wash cloths as gifts. They are quick, and add a little touch of heartfelt luxury to the morning ritual. This one was for a friend’s birthday, and doubles as wrapping for a piece of handmade soap. I can’t really say that I wrote the pattern; I’m more like a scientist, splicing the genes of two compatible knits: the Chinese Waves Dishcloth, and the classic Grandmother’s Favorite. I love the Chinese Waves stitch pattern, but knitting it in a plain old rectangle never seemed to have that well-finished look that the diagonal knit Grandmother’s Favorite has, while the usual garter stitch of the latter lacks the satisfying weighty thickness of Chinese Waves. Because Chinese Waves has some intrinsic diagonal lines to it, the end result almost looks like it wasn’t knitted on the diagonal at all (at least to the untrained, un-knitter’s eye). As an added bonus, for all you purl-shy, this is a no-purl pattern.
NAI NAI’S* FAVORITE DISHCLOTH
Gauge: really not critical. Just knit to your desired diagonal width, or until you’ve used half your yarn, whichever comes first. Sample was made with Knit Picks’ Comfy Worsted on #7 needles, but you should use whatever yarn you have handy (cotton is best) on whatever size needles make a nice solid fabric.
kfb – knit into the front leg, and then the back leg of the same stitch before dropping it from the needle
yo – yarn over needle, from front to back
sl1 – slip one stitch purlwise, with yarn to the back of the work
k2tog – knit two stitches together as one
ssk – slip next two sts as if to knit, transfer them back to the left hand needle, and knit them together through their back loops. If you’re just starting out and don’t know this decrease yet, it’s no big deal to substitute a k2tog for the ssk’s in this pattern.
centered decrease: sl1 as if to knit, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over. Beginner alternative: k3tog (knit three stitches together).
Cast on 3 stitches
Row 1: knit 3
Rows 2&3: k1, kfb, k to end
Row 4: k2, yo, k1, yo, k2
Row 5: k3, sl1, k3
Row 6: k2, yo, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2
Row 7: k3, (sl1, k1) to last 2 sts, k2
Repeat rows 6&7 until desired diagonal width, ending with row 7. In the wash cloth shown, I had 65 sts at the maximum width.
Row 8: k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k to last 5 sts, ssk, yo, ssk, k1
Repeat rows 7&8 until 9 sts remain, ending with row 7.
Row 9: k1, k2tog, yo, centered decrease, yo, ssk, k1
Row 10: k3, sl1, k3
Rows 11,12,13 & 14: k1, k2tog, k to end
Draw yarn through remaining sts and fasten off.
*Nai-Nai is Chinese for “grandmother”
Sitting somewhere deep in my big-involved-project queue is an Evenstar Shawl. While covetously perusing the FO’s on ravelry, I noticed many of these beautiful shawls (like this one) are knit up in a custom gradient yarn by The Unique Sheep. Lovely of lovelies, it compels me to make it!
Now of course, this spinner is thinking – how would one spin a long gradient from hand dyed fiber? You may be asking “why not just buy some existing long-gradient yarn?” or “why not dye it yourself after spinning?”
The answer? For Science! Or in other words, when you’ve got an itchy hypothesis, you gotta scratch it with a proof. Also, I have a few hand-dyed batches of wool from beesybee fibers:
I’m starting with a blue and grey colorway that makes me think “Nimbulous.” The first thing I do after unbraiding the roving is break the roving into pieces, trying to isolate blue from grey as much as possible, and sorting them as I go into mostly-blue/mostly-grey.
I wanted the color blending to be fairly uniform. If I just spun these pieces as they are, it would produce a single with a sort of barber pole look – which is beautiful in it’s own right, but not the effect I want for this project. It’s also hard to accurately judge the overall hue of each bundle of roving, which makes it harder to achieve the gradient I’m going for. So I am going to card each bundle to blend the colors, and then pull each handcarded batt into roving, sorting them further as I go. Hilariously, that only takes about 10 seconds to type. In reality, the execution of that statement takes, ahem, Somewhat Longer.
After carding about half of one bundle, I roll the batt off the carder from one side to the other, rather than from heel end to toe end (as one would to make a rolag). This process goes a lot smoother if you first loosen the batt from the loaded carder by turning it over and scraping it from toe to heel against the heel of the empty carder.
Then I predraft the rolled off batt into a long skinny bit of roving. At this point I have the cat’s severe and undivided attention.
And then I simply repeat these steps 100 times, adding each new ribbon of roving like a stroke to my growing watercolor. Somewhere in the process I get Daniel Johnston stuck in my head, and start singing “Don’t Let the Sun Go Down on Your Gradience.”
Starting at the graymost edge, I roll the first piece of roving into a ball, and then add strip after strip until the ball’s circumference gets too big to wrap a strip around. Kitty is beside himself with excitement.
Then I start a new ball with the next strip, and repeat, until I have five ordered balls of roving. I’m going to start spinning with the bluemost ball and retrace my steps back to the gray end, with only two or three intermissions caused by the cat victoriously snatching the middle ball and leaving it in trails about the house for me to pick up and card again.
I spun this up pretty thin – around 40 wraps per inch for the single. To preserve the gradient, I navajo plied the single into a three ply finished yarn. Navajo plying is so fun, rhythmic and a bit tricky, and always reminds me of childhood string games. After washing and beating the crap out of my skein, here’s the (pseudo) end result, even though it’s necessarily hard to see the gradient when the yarn is skeined.
More to come once I’ve knitted it up, although I don’t believe there’s enough for the Evenstar. Nevertheless, a shawl it shall be.